Day 9 – 16/04/2013 - Total so far 599.4km

Munich Thalkirchen – Garmish Partenkirchen

103.4km, 8hr 12mins, 1190m total climb

We slept well and got up to use the facilities around 07.30, had a couple of 3-in-one coffees again on the stove and some nutritional mixed chocolate biscuits for breakfast before packing up and rolling out of Munich. We followed the Isar again for a km or so then departed form the Radweg and slid up into the forest. We noticed some symbols on the route which at first we didn’t recognise (and didn’t photograph), but later we clicked... We were already on the St Jakobs Weg! Otherwise known as St James Way, St Jaques de Compostella - a pilgrim path that we planned to follow through France and Spain as the locus of our journey! We knew before that it stretched into Germany, but couldn’t find any good routes to plot against. We thought it might pop up but was a nice surprise anyway.

For the next 30 or so km's we kept sight of the route until it went absurdly vertical, probably on the way to another small chapel - they like to put them on the peaks of hills you know. We both are not very religious, and preferred to get a few more km's done, supposing that was better for the soul than a quick Hail Mary! ;)

Then they appeared.. Over the tops of trees and through gaps in the forest, the Alps loomed ominous. The rivers and overflowing streams gained the green chalky colour of melt-water and rushed more vigorously than the Danube or the Isar. The air got colder. Its all going uphill!

We didn't stop too much today other than one Cafe for a cappuccino and an apple corner for moral, so made good time. Back to our average speed of 17.6kph. Coming into Garmisch area, the valley opened up into wide plains of grazing ground, which had been cut back recently. Quite a strange landscape, feeling more like a huge country residence, without a Manor. All slightly uphill, but no wind and fine weather, not as good as the last couple of days though.

We stopped at Lidl on the way into Garmisch to get some ingredients for a feast of a pasta dish we had planned to make as soon as we arrived at the campsite. Pedalling through the town we noticed that much of it hadn’t opened yet as it was between seasons but still had a nice feel, with coffee shops and a fair amount of people on the streets. Obviously very keyed to tourism, but still with it's own semi-Alpine persona. Then we headed out another 4km or so to the campsite.

It wasn’t. It was a half building site/half permanent dweller place and I got annoyed. Toys were thrown, dummies were spat. With the broccoli wilting in Johanna's front pannier we set off into town to find something else. We tried a few hotels and asked around but they were all full or didn't suit our budget. Then we tried the tourist information which was just closed. They had a board outside however that had a list of local Pensions and Hotels with a free phone to use so we picked one (http://www.haus-sissi.de/) and dialled. It was 800m away and had a free double room. 80 Euro but including breakfast so we just decided to have a treat. It was actually great and we made the most of the hot shower and the breakfast buffet. I get the feeling that if the weather doesn't get better then we may have to enjoy the expensive Alpine hospitality a while longer...

http://ridewithgps.com/trips/1244911